I'm sorry for not posting for such a long time. I'll try to update more often!

Classes have started- I'm taking Islamic Art and Architecture, politics of the Middle East, Egyptian colloquial Arabic (aameya) and a class about Islam. I'm really enjoying all of my classes, especially my Islamic Art and Architecture- the class examines the origins and evolution of Islamic architecture. It will be nice to be able to visit mosques and actually know what I'm looking at.

Housing: I'm living in an apartment in Zamalek, with 4 other girls who go to Mount Holyoke. We live on the 11th floor with a view of the Nile. On clear days we can see the Pyramids at Giza. Our neighbors are an Egyptian family, a young French man, and a houseful of Germans.

Miscellaneous: My flatmates and I do the majority of our grocery shopping at a souq (market) on Sharia Sheikh Rahan, in the Saida Zeineb area of Cairo. Most of the vendors know us- the chicken man will smile and wave, the vegetable women will shout salutations to us, and the egg man keeps old coins for me. After living in Cairo for almost 6 months, I've become a pretty creative cook. Tonight we made eggplant stuffed with rice, tomatoes, onions and garlic. Last week I made a sweet potato pie- the sweet potato man thought I was crazy to want so many sweet potatoes. Below is the conversation we had in Arabic.

Me: I would like five sweet potatoes, ya hagg. (Hagg is a term of respect for a man who has completed a pilgrimage to Mecca, or for an older man).
Him: Five potatoes?
Me: Yes.
Him: Five sweet potatoes, really?
Me: Yes, exactly.
Him: But you are so small and the potatoes are so big.
Me: The potatoes look delicious.
Him: You see that man? (points to a large turbaned worker) He eats two potatoes.
Me: Yes, but I'm going to make a pie.
Him: How many children do you have- five?
Me: Yes.

Politics: There have been tensions in Egypt since the start of Israel's war in Gaza. Many Egyptians feel that their government is abandoning Palestinians and not doing enough to advance the peace process. The military has been out in full force, especially on Fridays. Some Cairo mosques call for revolt against the Mubarak administration, so the military quashes all agitation.

There was recently a case in the news, of a graduate student at the American University in Cairo, who was arrested by the security forces and detained for several days, for organizing a protest about Gaza. Despite this, ordinary Egyptians are much more outspoken about criticizing the president and his government. This is a really interesting time to be living in Egypt.

More later!